DELFAS // ANILIO

RESTAURANT // DELFAS

LOCATION // ANILIO, GREECE

MEAL // DINNER, 10.30PM

THE LOW-DOWN

Perched on the side of a mountain in Anilio is Delfas. What looks and feels like a cozy cabin is really an experience unlike others, for coming together with friends, putting the fuss aside, and enjoying fresh and simple ingredients. The exposed stoneware, rustic wooden frames, and woven cushions lining the benches add to this feeling. If you peer out on the other side of the taverna, lights from homes and restaurants dot the facing Metsovo mountain-side, your own personal light show. You’re in another world here.

Delfas has been around longer than most of us (90s kid over here)! Since 1952, it’s been operating primarily as a grocer and only serving meat in a small corner of the space to “those that knew”. That changed 3 years ago, when the spot chose to dedicate its cozy space entirely to food service. Kostas is the 3rd generation and runs the restaurant now, and he’s already ahead training the next generation. Apparently his son is already better than he is; his words, I swear!

Thanks to university friendships standing the test of time and distance, I had the advantage of a personal translator to get some detail on the ingredients and approach. Don’t worry, I was given permission to share, demonstrating confidence in the art of the approach and in sourcing of the ingredients, don’t you think?

The first item to exit the kitchen is warm paper bags, similar to those we might have seen at lunch time growing up. Upon opening, steam rolls out and you get a whiff of the fresh, rustic country bread with the perfect grill. It will complement the meal later on, but I obviously couldn’t help myself and got a head start.

Galotiri, a cow’s milk cheese, comes out next. Not too strong or thick and lightly whipped, perfect for my bread to dip right into. A classic Greek salad also landed on the table, but I won’t focus on that today (to note though: incredibly tasty tomatoes; you may know by now how I feel about tomatoes that emanate “tomato-ness.”).

Plates are optional for the rest of the meal. The meat and potatoes are plopped onto the table on large pieces of paper.

These are details. What’s important here at Delfas is the meat. So let’s get to the meat of the experience.

The sheep

It’s free-range and local. This is what makes it exceptional. In the paper, you’ll find a stack of sheep meat on the bones. Portions are ordered by the kilo (we had 2.5kg for 7 people).

There are inevitably pieces that are primarily fat, but you accept this because this is what adds the tremendous flavor to the meat. And actually to be honest you’ll even be tempted to eat a couple of pieces of the pure fat. I’m not usually for this, but they are so flavorful you won’t be able to help yourself. The fat and meat leave a pool of juices in the paper: enter the bread and fries for swirling. Nothing beats salty meat. It’s juicy and not chewy, and you’ll keep wanting more.

In the back kitchen I’m shown the grill situation and spice mix. No oil is used in the marinade; it’s only salt, paprika, and oregano. Yep, that’s it. It gets wrapped and stored to marinate for 4-5 days in the fridge. Interestingly, keeping it in the freezer for 5-6 days breaks down the muscle tissue in the meat even more, and then defrosting in the fridge for 1-2 days is what Kostas claims is ideal for that tender, juicy meat. Onto the charcoal grill it goes, and then it magically appears in front of you. Don’t be shy to go in with your hands, if you please. Getting dirty with it won’t necessarily be a pretty sight, but you won’t want to leave any meat behind, and you’re equipped with wipes anyway.

The chicken

The chicken is equally deserving of a show. It’s as tender as we want chicken to be. A slight char from the charcoal grill. Back in the kitchen, I smell the spice mix tub, picking up on the onion, thyme, and garlic; there’s also oregano, salt, and pepper. Marinated for 1 day (2 days max for conservation reasons) before it lands on the grill. I sneakily dipped the chicken into the galotiri (cheese from above) as well.

The fries

The thinly cut, lightly fried potatoes are an essential companion to a meat-heavy meal. Hand cut, which I know because I saw the bag of potatoes myself in the kitchen, and great for stacking onto your fork with your meat of choice.

The wine

The Rossiu di Munte Vlachiko from the Katogi Averoff winery, local to Metsovo.

WHAT I WORE

A white tank and cardigan co-ord, dark Levi’s, and laced espadrilles (the last wear they’ll get until next year). Looking back, the choice of white was risky, but I made it out stain-free.

WOULD I GO BACK

You can find me here again in the winter, cozied up by the fireplace, warmed by doing this all over again with my people. A resounding yes.